What a great time we have had on our Hebridean adventure in Lewis… but first, some info on where we have been!
Lewis & Harris sounds like two separate islands but is in fact just one continuous land mass. The two names seem to stem from a distinctive change in topography between the two – Lewis, to the North (the more populated), being a flatter, low-lying landscape dominated by peat bogs; and Harris, to the south, being more mountainous.
According to Google AI and the last census, the island is home to around 20,000 people, 18,000 of whom live in Lewis with approximately 12,000 of those, living in the biggest town of Stornoway, and with Harris being home to the other 2,000. Apparently, around 62% of the population has an understanding of Scottish Gaelic with around 45% speaking it… although, in the area we stayed (Barvas), this percentage rises to around 55% which is, apparently, one of the highest concentrations in Scotland.
After spending Sunday having a drive round part of the island to get our bearings, we ventured out proper on Monday 5th with a trip to what is possibly the most famous of Lewis’ landmarks, the Standing Stones of Callanish… which are amazing 🤩
Tursachan Chalanais (Callanish Standing Stones)
Tursachan Chalanais (Callanish Standing Stones)
On the way back, we dropped in to take a look at the Carloway Broch… which was also amazing too!
Dùn Chàrlabhaigh (Dun Carloway Broch)
And then, further along the coast we noticed a small bay where the waves were smashing against the cliffs so decided to take a look at that too…
Watching the waves – Tràigh Dhail Bheag (Dailbeag Beach) – which apparently means beach of the small meadow…
Top left, one of a pair of Whooper Swans spotted on Loch Dhailbeag
Top – Grey Seal spotted near Callanais Standing Stones;
Top R = a very distant shot of our first Golden Eagle seen from
our bedroom window!
Right M/B = Blurry Teal(!) & Buzzard; Left T/B = Curlew & Heron
Day 3 (6th October) we headed for the most northerly point of Lewis… the Butt of Lewis, which gets it’s English name from the geographical sense of the word “butt”, meaning the thick, blunt end or extremity of any object or landmass. Because the headland forms the blunt, protruding northern tip of the Isle of Lewis, it was termed the Butt of the island. In my head, I would have thought the Butt was at the bottom 🫢, but then I am pretty simple when it comes to thinking! 😆
In Scottish Gaelic, the Butt is called Rubha Robhanais where the word rubha specifically translates to a promontory or headland. Which makes more sense to me!
Top L/R = Rock Dove / Shags (or Cormorants?); Bottom L – Raven in flight (fluke photo!);
Bottom R – M/B = Rock Pipit / Greylag Goose
Day 4 (7th) started with heavy rain showers so we took an hours drive south to the Isle of Harris & the North Harris Eagle Observatory.
South of us, the island(s) has a totally different landscape – more mountainous than peat bog and, after finding the Observatory car park at Miabhag nam Beann (8 miles from Tarbet, the main administrative centre of the Isle), I went off to use the facilities in the top car park. As expected, the heavens opened which meant I effectively got stuck in the toilet for a good 5 mins or so, else I would have got drenched! Luckily, Pete had taken shelter in the car…
We therefore thought we were very lucky to make the 3-mile return walk up to the observatory hide & back without getting wet at all & no further showers.
The walk to the hide was fantastic – it was great to hear the red deer bellowing the further up the valley we got and, once in the hide, we spent a relaxing hour or so trying to spot golden eagles whilst eating a packed lunch of apples & biscuits! The perfect way to spend an afternoon 😊
Walk up to the North Harris Eagle Observatory
Walking up to the Eagle Observatory
we saw these two Stonechats, a pair of White-tailed Eagles (shown above)
& a golden eagle which was too quick flying on the wind
at distance to get a pic of!
Also saw a few Mergansers too (Middle R)
Throughout the day there were plenty of rain showers which we seemed to miss but gave plenty of opportunity for pics of rainbows!
Day 5 (8th October), with the threat of heavy rain in the weather forecast, we decided to head to the coast south of where we’re staying so we could dip our toes in the Atlantic Ocean… unfortunately the forecast was right and, despite having a lovely drive down to Uig Bay & Ardroil beach, as soon as we arrived it started to rain heavily.
We still gave it a go but soon realised the tide was out and, with the sea too far out to get to without getting soaked, we settled for a short stroll on the beach instead…
Uig Bay is where, in 1831, a local man found a large hoard of 12th century gaming pieces in a small stone box buried in the sand dunes – these became known as the Lewis Chessmen. The photo above shows a sculpture of one overlooking Uig Bay – more info can be found here: https://www.nms.ac.uk/discover-catalogue/the-story-of-the-lewis-chess-pieces
After the beach, we thought we would go and take a look at the remotest cafe we may have ever visited and, perhaps grab a coffee… honestly, this place – The Edge cafe – is like going into someone’s home! It has one long table which seats around 12 people and overlooks the cliffs at Aird Uig near the old RAF base… for somewhere in the middle of nowhere, it was rammed and, after a browse of the rooms displaying many local crafts for sale, we left without coffee!
Day 6 (9th October) and again the forecast was for heavy showers but, just in case we were missing it, we also had gale force winds to contend with too! 🤣🤣🤣
As this was our last full day in Lewis, we decided to go ahead with a walk from our Air BnB a few miles down the road, through the machair (the rare, fertile low-lying coastal grassland shaped by shell-sand blown ashore by Atlantic gales & sustained by traditional crofting here in Lewis) to try and get them toes dipped in the Atlantic again… but, alas, the weather drove us back home again after just a mile & we spent a very cozy afternoon indoors instead, before heading off to Stornoway to grab a Chinese takeaway!
As you might be able to tell, the weather has been a mixed bag all week – some lovely sunshine, heavy rain and a fairly consistent strong wind! But that might be what it’s like here most of the time? It’s a very boggy place where the ground, even now in early October, appears completely saturated! Unlike other parts of the UK (mainly the whole of England) that are in drought still, I don’t think Lewis & Harris will ever run out of water!
The war memorial is just down the road from where we are staying – outside Barvas Church of Scotland
So today (10th October) we came to the end of our Hebridean adventure ☹️
We took our time getting back to Stornoway & visited the Coll Pottery Craft Centre where we met the potter himself (originally from Lancashire & an Army veteran). We got the fella’s life story before we headed into Stornoway &, dodging the rain showers, took a walk around the woods / garden at Lews Castle, then paid our respects at the War Memorial.
A walk around the grounds at Lews Castle, Stornoway
The War Memorial in Stornoway
We then made our way to the ferry port, checked in and waited for our ferry which managed to leave about 15 minutes early – perfect!
Two Murals in the Ferry Terminal in Stornoway.
Top = Callanish Stone Circle by Jim Scott
Bottom = Dailbeg by Sheila Scott
The ferry back was not as rough as the wind on land made me think it would be & seemed to take no time at all – it was great spotting the dolphins in between finishing this blog off!
The ferry back to Ullapool
I wasn’t quick enough to get a snap of all the dolphins…
So now, an hour down the road from Ullapool &, therefore, an hour closer to home, we are resting up for the night in the final hotel of our break, about 20 miles north of Inverness.
Tomorrow, we will make the 5-hour drive (200 miles) home with a few stops along the way and, hopefully, be back by 6-ish 🤞
I think we will return to Lewis & Harris again… it is a beautiful place and there’s many parts we didn’t get to see yet.
In the meantime, I can now start counting down the days until our next trip… a visit to North Yorkshire to celebrate Bonfire night & my birthday – hurray! 20-days & counting 😊!
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